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Gia Carangi

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Gia Carangi
Carangi in 1982
Born
Gia Marie Carangi

(1960-01-29)January 29, 1960
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U.S.
DiedNovember 18, 1986(1986-11-18) (aged 26)
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U.S.
Cause of deathAIDS-related complications
OccupationModel
Years active1978–1983
Modeling information
Height1.73 m (5 ft 8 in)[1]
Hair colorBrown
Eye colorBrown
AgencyWilhelmina Models
Ford Models
Legends
Elite Model Management

Gia Marie Carangi[2] (January 29, 1960 – November 18, 1986) was an American supermodel, considered by some to be the first supermodel.[3][4] In 2023, Harpers Bazaar ranked her 15th among the greatest supermodels in the 1980s.[5] She was featured on the cover of numerous magazines, including multiple editions of Vogue and Cosmopolitan, and appeared in advertising campaigns for fashion houses including Armani, Dior, Versace and Yves Saint Laurent.[6]

After Carangi became addicted to heroin, her career rapidly declined, which ultimately led her to quit modeling in 1983. In 1986, at age 26, she died of AIDS-related complications. Believed to have contracted it from a contaminated needle, she became one of the early notable public women to die of the virus.[3] Her life was dramatized in the television film Gia (1998), directed by Michael Cristofer and starring Angelina Jolie as Carangi.

Early life

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Carangi was born on January 29, 1960, in Philadelphia, the third and youngest child of Joseph Carangi, a restaurant owner, and Kathleen Carangi (née Adams), a homemaker. She had three older brothers, one of them was from her father's previous marriage and 1 younger half-brother. Her father was Italian, and her mother was of Irish and Welsh ancestry. Joseph and Kathleen had an unstable, violent marriage, ultimately leading Kathleen to abandon the family when Carangi was eleven years old. Gia was described as "needy and manipulative" by relatives who recalled her as spoiled and shy as a child and a "mommy's girl" who did not receive the motherly attention that she desired. Those who knew Gia blamed her "fractured childhood" for the instability and drug dependence that plagued her adult life.[4] Carangi was sexually abused when she was 5 years old, an event which traumatized her.[7]

In her adolescent years, Carangi found the attention she sought from other teenage girls, befriending them by sending flowers. While attending Abraham Lincoln High School, Carangi bonded with "the Bowie kids", a group of obsessive David Bowie fans who emulated Bowie's "defiantly weird, high-glam" style. Carangi was drawn to Bowie for his fashion preferences and his ambiguous gender play and outspoken bisexuality. One of Carangi's friends later spoke of her "tomboy persona", describing her relaxed openness about her sexuality as reminiscent of the character Cay in the film Desert Hearts (1985). Carangi and her "bi-try Bowie-mad" friends hung out in Philadelphia's gay clubs and bars. Though she's associated with the lesbian community, she did not want to take up "the accepted lesbian style."[4]

Career

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After being featured in Philadelphia newspaper ads and being discovered by Sondra Scerca in Maurice Tannenbaum's hair salon,[8] Carangi moved to New York City at the age of 17, where she signed with Wilhelmina Models.[9] Her first major shoot, published in October 1978, was with top fashion photographer Chris von Wangenheim, who had her pose nude behind a chain-link fence with makeup artist Sandy Linter. Carangi immediately became infatuated with Linter and pursued her, though the relationship never became stable.[10] By the end of 1978, her first year in New York, Carangi was already a well-established model. Of her quick rise to prominence, described by Vogue as "meteoric",[9] Carangi later said, "I started working with very good people, I mean all the time, very fast. I didn't build into a model, I just sort of became one."[11] Carangi was earning half a million dollars in a year at the height of her career.[5]

Carangi was a favorite model of various fashion photographers, including Von Wangenheim, Francesco Scavullo, Arthur Elgort, Richard Avedon and Denis Piel. Well-integrated within the fashion world, she had the selection of several photographers, most notably Scavullo.[12] Carangi was featured on the cover of many fashion magazines, including the April 1979 issue of British Vogue, the April 1979 and August 1980 issues of Vogue Paris, the August 1980 issue of Vogue, the February 1981 issue of Vogue Italia, and multiple issues of Cosmopolitan between 1979 and 1982.[6] During these years, she also appeared in various advertising campaigns for high-profile fashion houses, including Armani, André Laug, Christian Dior, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent.[6] At the height of her career, Carangi was most known in modeling circles by only her first name.[4] During this time, she also appeared in the Blondie music video for the single "Atomic".[13][14]

A regular at Studio 54 and the Mudd Club,[15] Carangi usually used cocaine in clubs.[16] After her agent, mentor and friend Wilhelmina Cooper, died of lung cancer in March 1980, a devastated Carangi began using drugs and developed an addiction to heroin.[16][17] Carangi's addiction soon began to affect her work; she had violent temper tantrums, walked out of photo shoots to buy drugs, and fell asleep in front of the camera. Scavullo recalled a fashion shoot with Carangi in the Caribbean when "she was crying, she couldn't find her drugs. I literally had to lay her down on her bed until she fell asleep."[18] During one of her final location shoots for American Vogue, Carangi had red bumps in the crooks of her elbows where she had injected heroin. Despite airbrushing, some of the photos, as published in the November 1980 issue, reportedly still showed visible needle marks.[19][20]

In November 1980, Carangi left Wilhelmina Models and signed with Ford Models, but she was dropped within weeks. By then, her career was in a steep decline. Modeling offers soon ceased and her fashion industry friends, including Sandy Linter, refused to speak to her, fearing their association with her would harm their careers. In an attempt to quit using drugs, she moved back to Philadelphia with her mother and stepfather in February 1981.[21] Carangi underwent a 21-day detox program,[22] but her sobriety was short-lived. She was arrested in March 1981 after she drove into a fence in a suburban neighborhood. After a chase with police, she was taken into custody where it was later determined she was under the influence of alcohol and cocaine. After her release, Carangi briefly signed with a new agency, Legends, and worked sporadically, mainly in Europe.[23]

In late 1981, although still using drugs, Carangi was determined to make a comeback in the fashion industry and signed with Elite Model Management. While some clients refused to work with her, others were willing to hire her because of her past status as a top model. Scavullo photographed her for the April 1982 cover of Cosmopolitan, her last cover appearance for an American magazine.[4][6] Sean Byrnes, Scavullo's long-time assistant, later said, "What she was doing to herself finally became apparent in her pictures. ... I could see the change in her beauty. There was an emptiness in her eyes."[24]

Carangi then mainly worked with photographer Albert Watson and found work modeling for department stores and catalogs. She appeared in an advertising campaign for Versace, shot by Richard Avedon. He hired her for the fashion house's next campaign, but during the photo shoot, in late 1982, Carangi became uncomfortable and left before any usable shots of her were taken.[25] Around this time, Carangi enrolled in an outpatient methadone program but soon began using heroin again.[26] By the end of 1982, she had only a few clients that were willing to hire her. Carangi's final photo shoot was for German mail-order clothing company Otto GmbH in Tunisia;[27] she was sent home during the shoot for using heroin. She left New York for the final time in early 1983.[28]

Death

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Carangi spent most of her modeling earnings on drugs, and spent the final three years of her life with various lovers, friends, and family members in Philadelphia and Atlantic City, New Jersey. She was admitted to an intense drug treatment program at Eagleville Hospital in December 1984.[29] She was in intense therapy and was able to stay sober for 7 months. After treatment, she got a job in a clothing store, which she eventually quit.[30] She later found employment as a checkout clerk and then worked in the cafeteria of a nursing home. By late 1985, she had begun using drugs again and was engaging in prostitution in Atlantic City.[31] She had cancelled the meetings with her therapist, bought as much heroin as she could, and attempted suicide but failed.[32]

In December 1985, Carangi was admitted to Warminster General Hospital in Warminster, Pennsylvania with bilateral pneumonia. A few days later, she was diagnosed with AIDS-related complex.[33] Carangi was hospitalized in October 1986, feeling weak.[32] On October 18, she was admitted to Hahnemann University Hospital in Philadelphia.[34] Carangi died at the Hahnemann Hospital of AIDS-related complications 1 month later, on November 18, 1986, at the age of 26;[35] she was among the first famous women to die of the disease.[3] Her funeral was held on November 23 at a small funeral home in Philadelphia. No one from the fashion world attended.[4] However, weeks later, fashion photographer Francesco Scavullo, Carangi's friend and confidant, sent a Mass card when he learned of her death.[36]

Filmography

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Film
Year Film Role Notes
2003 The Self-Destruction of Gia Self Archive footage, posthumously release
Television
Year Title Role Notes
2009–2011 20 to 1 Self Archive footage, posthumously release, episode: Sizzling Superstars, Adults Only 20 to 1: Sizzling Supermodels
Music video
Year Title Role Artists
1980 Atomic girl with goggles Blondie

Legacy

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Carangi's rise to fame as an androgenic brunette in an industry full of blue-eyed blondes is believed to have started heroin chic.[32] Carangi is often considered to be the first supermodel,[3][4] although that title has been applied to others, including Margaux Hemingway, Audrey Munson,[37][38] Lisa Fonssagrives,[39][40] Dorian Leigh,[41] Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton,[42] Cheryl Tiegs and Janice Dickinson.[43] Model Cindy Crawford, who rose to prominence the year Carangi died, was referred to as "Baby Gia" because of her resemblance to Carangi.[44] Crawford later recalled, "My agents took me to all the photographers who liked Gia: Albert Watson, Francesco Scavullo, Bill King. Everyone loved her look so much that they gladly saw me."[9] Additionally, Carangi, whose sexual orientation has been reported as either lesbian or bisexual, is considered a lesbian icon and is said to have "epitomized lesbian chic more than a decade before the term was coined."[4][10] Argentine model Mica Argañaraz has often been compared to Carangi, whom she considers a beauty icon.[45][46]

Carangi's life has been the subject of several works. A biography of Carangi by Stephen Fried titled Thing of Beauty—taken from the first line of John Keats' famous poem Endymion—was published in 1993. Gia, a biographical film starring Angelina Jolie, debuted on HBO in 1998. Jolie won a Golden Globe Award and a Screen Actors Guild Award for her performance, among other accolades. A documentary titled The Self-Destruction of Gia, released in 2003, showcased footage of Carangi, contemporary interviews with Carangi's family and former colleagues, including Sandy Linter, and footage of actress-screenwriter Zoë Lund, herself a heroin addict, who had been commissioned to write a screenplay based upon Carangi's life at the time of her own death of drug-related causes in 1999.[47][48]

A biography of Carangi by Sacha Lanvin Baumann titled Born This Way: Friends, Colleagues, and Coworkers Recall Gia Carangi, the Supermodel Who Defined an Era, was published in 2015. Sondra Scerca, who brought Carangi to Wilhelmina, is currently writing a memoir titled GIA, WILLY and ME, which will be released in 2022. Carangi is commemorated on the AIDS Memorial Quilt on block #5949.[49]

Designers and brands represented

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References

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  1. ^ "Gia: The tragic tale of the world's first supermodel". independent.co.uk. London, United Kingdom: Independent Digital News and Media Limited. September 10, 2005. Retrieved July 2, 2024.
  2. ^ Fried S (2011). Thing of Beauty. Simon and Schuster. p. 14. ISBN 978-1451676402. Retrieved February 9, 2019.
  3. ^ a b c d Vallely, Paul (September 10, 2005). "Gia: The tragic tale of the world's first supermodel". The Independent. Archived from the original on January 1, 2008. Retrieved May 28, 2007.
  4. ^ a b c d e f g h Carolin, Louise. "Gia – the tragedy of a lesbian supermodel". Diva. Archived from the original on March 25, 2007. Retrieved January 17, 2008.
  5. ^ a b Burri, Thomas (2015), "III The 1980s", The Greatest Possible Freedom, Nomos, pp. 53–98, doi:10.5771/9783845265490-53, ISBN 978-3-8452-6549-0
  6. ^ a b c d e "Gia Marie Carangi (Overview)". Fashion Model Directory. Retrieved May 31, 2013.
  7. ^ Fried, Stephen (February 29, 2008). "Thing of Beauty". Philadelphia Magazine. Retrieved June 16, 2024.
  8. ^ Rmo, Mares. "Love and Friendship > Sondra Scerca". Gia Carangi Lived Here, Never To Be Forgotten.
  9. ^ a b c "Voguepedia: Gia Carangi". Vogue.com. Archived from the original on February 22, 2014. Retrieved February 16, 2014.
  10. ^ a b Lo, Malinda (December 13, 2005). "Back in the Day: Out on the Catwalk". AfterEllen.com. Archived from the original on April 13, 2010. Retrieved May 28, 2007.
  11. ^ Fried, Stephen (November 1988). "Thing of Beauty". phillymag.com. Archived from the original on April 19, 2013. Retrieved March 14, 2013.
  12. ^ Rapp, Linda (April 17, 2005). "Scavullo, Francesco (1929–2004)". glbtq.com. Archived from the original on May 9, 2008. Retrieved May 28, 2007.
  13. ^ BlondieVEVO (November 16, 2010), Blondie – Atomic, archived from the original on December 11, 2021, retrieved July 21, 2017
  14. ^ "Gia Carangi in Blondie's "Atomic" Video | Gia". Gia. Retrieved July 21, 2017.
  15. ^ "Gia Marie Carangi". March 28, 2005. Archived from the original on April 4, 2007. Retrieved May 28, 2007.
  16. ^ a b "Gia Carangi: A Biography". Archived from the original on May 21, 2007. Retrieved May 28, 2007.
  17. ^ Fried, Stephen (1994). Thing of Beauty: The Tragedy of Supermodel Gia. N. Y.; L.Tooltip Carl Linnaeus: Pocket Books. pp. 232, 234. ISBN 0-671-70105-3.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location (link)
  18. ^ "The Life and Death of Gia Carangi – self-referential?". Geoclan.com. Archived from the original on March 11, 2010. Retrieved December 4, 2013.
  19. ^ Pollock, Griselda; Bal, Mieke (2008). Conceptual Odysseys: Passages to Cultural Analysis. I.B.Tauris. p. 97. ISBN 978-1-84511-523-4.
  20. ^ Fried 1994, p. 246.
  21. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 247, 252–253.
  22. ^ Fried 1994, p. 256.
  23. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 262–261.
  24. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 272, 274–275.
  25. ^ Fried 1994, p. 284.
  26. ^ Fried 1994, p. 290.
  27. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 275, 284.
  28. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 293–294.
  29. ^ Fried 1994, p. 324.
  30. ^ Fried 1994, p. 352.
  31. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 356–357.
  32. ^ a b c Fried, Stephen (February 29, 2008). "Thing of Beauty". Philadelphia Magazine. Retrieved August 28, 2024.
  33. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 360–361.
  34. ^ Fried 1994, p. 381.
  35. ^ Fried 1994, p. 387.
  36. ^ Fried 1994, pp. 389–390.
  37. ^ "The Tragedy of Audrey Munson, America's First Supermodel". New England Historical Society. August 21, 2016.
  38. ^ Bone, James (2016). The Curse of Beauty: The Scandalous and Tragic Life of Audrey Munson, America's First Supermodel. New York City: ReganArts.
  39. ^ Rosemary Ranck (February 9, 1997). "The First Supermodel". The New York Times. Retrieved September 24, 2006.
  40. ^ Wyllie, Alice (January 10, 2008). "An enduring model". The Scotsman. Edinburgh.
  41. ^ Gross, Michael (2003). Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women. HarperCollins. ISBN 0-06-054163-6.
  42. ^ Magee, Antonia (October 28, 2009). "Model Jean Shrimpton recollects the stir she caused on Victoria Derby Day in 1965". Herald Sun. Archived from the original on June 14, 2011. Retrieved June 7, 2010.
  43. ^ Weller, Krysten (May 16, 2003). "No Lifeguard on Duty: The Accidental Life of the World's First Supermodel". The Michigan Times. Archived from the original on September 16, 2008. Retrieved January 17, 2008.
  44. ^ Gross, Michael (October 30, 1989). "The Face". New York Magazine. 22 (43). New York Media, LLC: 39. ISSN 0028-7369.
  45. ^ Simon, Jade (July 1, 2016). "Mica Arganaraz's perfect summer". Vogue Paris.
  46. ^ Adorante, Mia (July 24, 2015). "Mica Arganaraz Drinks Lots of Water, Smokes Cigarettes". W.
  47. ^ Foundas, Scott (August 8, 2002). "Review: 'The Self-Destruction of Gia'". Variety. Retrieved February 16, 2014.
  48. ^ "Zoë Lund (Tamerlis)". FilmFanatics.net. February 13, 2010. Retrieved February 16, 2014.
  49. ^ "Interactive AIDS Quilt".
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